RED FOX FAMILY  CARE  SHEET  
 This information is directed to the red fox family
(Silver fox, Marble Fox, Glazier Fox, Pearl Fox)

Caring for a Fox

Another issue with chain fence that is not covered with another type of fence with smaller holes will

lessen any chance of the fox putting his foot, leg through the fence.  If  predator is near or at the fence, there could be a chance your fox would get too close his fence, where a predator could grab a limb from your fox.  This sadly happened to a fox owner, a predator, no one knows for sure what it was, but, the leg was pulled off the fox and the fox bled to death before the owner found him.

Also, by securing your fox's enclosure with another layer of fence, it should prevent a person or child getting to close to the fox, where the fox could bite. when approaching a fox through  fence, never put your finger straight in. many people (mostly people that the fox is not familiar with) that could lack the proper understanding of approaching a fox in it's enclosure stand a good chance of getting bit.

Depending on the location of your enclosure, it is best to keep your fox very secure. Example would be if you live close to neighbors, or kids, dogs or even people go onto your property when you are not home or sleeping. If this is the case, another method would be to do a double fence. (another fence around the parameter of the enclosure. A lock would be a good idea also.

As for a roof (a must), you can put fence on the roof, or corrugated panels, or any type of slant roof.
Keep in mind, you still want to keep litter pans in their pen, so they continue to understand that is where they do their business at.  If you have an open pen with no solid roof or partial roof, the litter will get wet when it rains or snows.  This will only shy the fox away from using their litter pan.  if you don't keep a litter pan in their pen, then the pen will smell bad, and require more pen cleanup and more odor. 

If you don't add any type of protective roof on the pen, the fox should then have some type of places to go for shade. as for a litter box, you can put the litter pan in some type of  large wooden box.

I don't recommend keeping an adult fox in a small cage. That is just asking for problems.  The fox will get bored, destructive and possibly wild.  it is also very cruel to keep an adult fox in a cage or small enclosure. 
 

In their room (which is an extra bedroom), I have bunk beds (no mattress) they love it.  Also my wonderful friends made a real nice exhaust fan for the window in their room. It keeps the room cool, and also gives them more air flow in their enclosure. I have 3 large litter pans in their room, and 3 in their enclosure.

This picture is part of the bottom bunk bed in their room
and only just a small part of their room.

My raccoon loves the cylinder (with the blanket over it)
He naps in there. He has toys, blankets, and pillows
 in there.

The large carrier to the right is where Daryl (my oldest fox love to nap.

The other foxes will sometimes nap or hang out at the top bunk.  (This picture is just a small part of their room.

The bottom picture is a fountain my wonderful friends made for me. There is a pump underneath.  Here is more information on how it is made: http://www.instructables.com/id/Indoor-Pet-Water-Fountain/
 

FOX KITS
The more you handle your fox, the more he/she will be friendly, this also applies for others to handle your fox if possible.  Foxes are generally born in April.   I would highly recommend getting a very young fox,  this will give your fox a better chance to bond with you.

When raising a kit (young fox) The first 6 months are the most crucial time to bond.
There are several different options to try. I raised 4 foxes and have learned different approaches.

I would like to suggest when you first bring home your fox, keep in mind, he/she might be a little stressed and confused. He/she will be in a complete different environment and people. Most foxes adjust rather quick, some don't. If your new kit seems scared. Put him in a large dog kennel.
keep it half covered, with a small box, blanket and teddy bear in the box.   Sit near the cage and let the fox get use to you and the new environment.  If you stress the kit, it could take that much longer for the adjustment period.  DON'T let a lot of people handle him on his first day or more.
Your start would be to let him adjust first, take everything in small steps, and don't overwhelm the fox with too much at one time.

If you have an extra room, that would be better after you have the fox for a week or so.  The hard part is, trying to keep them friendly with you, but at the same time, litter train them and to let them release some of their energy. I do not recommend keeping the fox kit in a cage for long periods. It is crucial for the fox to bond with you. (the only exception would be to keep him/her in the cage until he/she adjusts to you and the new environment. 

When I raised my first fox, she was not litter trained. she was friendly though.
(Sadly, I no longer have her, she slipped out of the house, and one of the neighbors shot her, where she is now sitting in some jerks trophy room)

My second fox (Daryl), is 99% liter trained (except for periodically marking)
He was not friendly the first 2 years. After trying a different approach with him, he now is very friendly. (not like a dog) but again, a fox is not a dog.

My third fox (Darla) is about 95% liter trained. she will sometimes go by beside the litter box. She is semi-friendly, on her terms. She seems to be getting better with age.  One thing I did notice, if the first fox is litter trained, and if you get a second fox a year or so later, and have a hard time litter training her/him.  sometimes, the second fox will pick up on the litter habits of the first fox.

Now on my fourth fox (Donnie), I took a  little different approach than I did with the first three.
When I first brought Donnie home, I kept him in a room with my older cat. If you have a calm or older cat, this is fine to keep them together while the fox is still small. It is also good, so that the fox can get use to a cat being around.  However, once the fox grows up, I doubt they will be buddies. I don't recommend keeping a full grown fox with a cat in a room together  unsupervised.  NEVER PUT A KITTEN WITH A FULL GROWN FOX.  Donnie no longer stays in the room with the cat. He runs with the other two foxes. 

When Donnie was smaller, I tried to take him with me to whatever room I was going to be in.
I let him play while I am doing what I needed to do.  I held him as much as I could.  It is good to at least pick the fox kit often, (but, not a lot if they stress over it) even if it is for a few minutes, then put him down. but keep doing this as often as you can, so the fox gets use to being picked up.

I think the key here is to let them release some of their energy, then hold them, pet them.
but, play with the fox as much as possible.  The idea of letting them release some of their energy is so you can hold and pet your fox for longer periods of time and gain more of the attention.  Otherwise, the fox will squirm and want down and/or ignore you.  I also held him sometimes while he is sleeping.  As he grew a little older, he didn't seem to want to be held when he sleeps. As they grow, they sometimes are too big to hold while they are sleeping and become more independent.  Donnie use to sleep on the bed with me most nights, he would snuggle up next to me, (which is unusual for a fox). Unfortunately , Donnie shied away from me. I made the mistake of letting him with the other foxes too soon and too often. Then, I broke my leg and had a hard time getting around for a few months, so that sure didn't help in the training.  Donnie is now very shy, but, he is coming around a little at a time.


AGGRESSIVE FOX KITS:

If you get a fox kit that is older than 4-5 weeks old and find he/she is aggressive.  Most likely this could be due to a new environment and new people.  It is a MUST to let the fox kit settle in and adjust to its new environment. A scared and stressed fox will be aggressive and will bite.

I would also like to suggest PLEASE DO NOT use your hand to play bite with  your fox.
They have sharp teeth and can bite pretty hard.  When playing, use a stuffed animal.
As they grow to adult, they will think it is OK to bite you. I personally have never been bit by any of my foxes.  With foxes, sometimes certain noises or movements can trigger a little aggression.
Some foxes don't like to be petted where they can't see your hand.  Mine are fine with me, I can comb or pet them anywhere. But, at times, they let me know when they had enough.


If you get an older fox, the longer it will take for the fox to adjust to its new environment and people.

If you have this problem with your fox kit, try the following steps:

1. Leave the fox in a large cage, don't try picking him/her up. (especially the first day)
2. Don't let a lot of different people around your fox kit.
3. Don't attempt any type of training.
4. Don't pick the fox kit up.
5. Let him see you and talk to him in soft voice.
6. After he/she settles a little, offer he/she a hand treat.

It could take a day to a few weeks or more for the fox kit to adjust.  But, even if the fox is left in the cage, you still need to be near the fox as much as possible, talk to the fox in a low tone. when you are not home, leave a TV on low.

A good cage to use is one of those large dog kennels.  put a box or whatever you can find so the fox has somewhere to hide.  keep that in the corner of the crate, then put a sheet or light blanket to cover about 1/4 of the cage. This will help the fox feel secure. If possible, set the cage on a table or something that is about the same height as a table.  This way, the fox won't feel as threatened as it would on the floor. The fox would almost be at the same level as its owner and not feel threatened as it would be on the floor.

Put a litter pan near the cage door for cleaning.  However, it is doubtful the fox kit will use it, but, it might. The cage will need cleaned. so, try and limit that as much as possible the first couple days.
once a day might be ok.    The litter box can be small, you can even use a small cardboard box in lieu of a cat litter box. (saves room in the cage)

You can also try putting the food and water dishes as close to the door as you can.

Once the fox kit looks like it is not so stressed and a little more comfortable, you could try hand feeding it a treat. If he/she is still aggressive, don't give him the treat.

Once the kit looks more relaxed and adjusted to its new environment. you could leave the cage door open in one room and see if he comes out.  Again, this is assuming he/she trusts you a little.

The key here is, the fox kit will at least feel safe in his cage, so if he gets scared, he might run back in his cage.

Once the kit comes out and is not as aggressive, you can then SLOWLY work with him.

Keep in mind, a scared fox kit is not always the case.  Usually depends on how the breeder handled the kit. Either way, it might take a little time of adjustment. some do and some don't.

Again, I don't recommend play biting with a fox like you would a dog. This will only encourage the fox to bite you. Use a stuffed animal to play with your fox.

To continue: see the following:
Training an Older or Full Grown Fox


Adult Foxes:
As the fox gets older, most likely, he will want to do what he wants to do. But, still try to keep him with you and play with him/her as much as possible. Talk to your fox, no matter what the conversation might be.  Keep in mind, foxes do not like to be hugged, petted all the time, and picked up. Don't force him/her, this will only confuse or upset the fox.  I am mostly referring to adult foxes.  There may be times, when your fox will come to you to be petted, or scratched. but, they do have their time limits.

Darla likes to groom the other foxes, even the dogs. I found it very interesting to watch her do this. She takes her teeth, and starts at the skin, and gently pulls up on the fur in a zig-zag way.

I tried this on Daryl, and he will sit still much longer when I do this. Another petting method that Daryl loves, is when I gently scratch the inside of his ear. (not deep in his ear, just at the top) Daryl also likes the outside of his ear gently scratched, he even likes when I rub his shoulders.  when shedding season comes (usually starts around February and continues thru the summer.  I also introduced a stainless dog comb to Daryl, he loves it, and looks forward to it. 

Foxes like toys. They will play with toys on their own and you can also a try a small dog tug-a-war rope, squeaky  toys or something similar.  Some foxes might have a favorite toy. Daryl has a favorite toy that he has had for years, sometimes he buries it, then gets back and moves it somewhere else, but, I usually always see it.

If your fox attempts to bite you, tell him/her NO BITE, and a light tap on the nose. The key here, as it is with any correction for any animal, is "precise timing" The fox needs to understand the connection.

If he/she is viciously biting, then there is a problem somewhere. None of my foxes have bit me out of aggression.   Actually, they never bit me.  You should be able to tell by their behavior if they are going to bite, but, on another note, foxes are quick, and can attempt to bite in a split second. You should keep your eyes on your fox every second when petting him/her or playing with him/her.  Some foxes might attempt to bite due to other sudden sounds or movement from something else. 

As they get older and their teeth are more developed, you can grab one of the canines and gently tug and tell the fox "NO"  but you need to be quick about it.  When doing this, it should be done in a way that the fox cannot clamp down your hand hand.  If the fox is being aggressive, then don't do this.  something is wrong, maybe the fox don't trust you. 

 
Foxes with other species or second Fox Kit
if you have other animals. Most foxes like dogs. But, it depends on how your dogs are. Are your dogs pretty calm, easy going or well behaved?  Can you trust them with a fox this size? All my dogs are use to smaller animals, so I don't have any trust problems with any of them. 

Cats and foxes don't mix well, especially kittens.  NEVER put a kitten with an adult fox. They MUST be kept separate.  I had an older cat when I got Daryl. Daryl, never bothered the cat, just ignored her, even through adult. Then about 5 years of age, Daryl tried to killed the older cat.  I believe it was due to jealousy. but, I am not sure.  He did this twice.  Thereafter, I kept the cat separated.
NEVER leave a cat and fox unsupervised. Better to be safe than sorry.

If you already have a fox  and adding a second or third, I don't recommend putting any kits with the full grown ones until the older ones get use to the new fox. It is important to introduce them first.  It will take a while. Let the adult foxes or dogs see the kit, but keep control of the kit at the same time.  When I do introductory with very young and small animals, I kept the young one in a large 3x4 cage, so the other animals could see it, sniff it.  but, keep a blanket on the a part of the cage, in case the young fox kit gets scared, and has somewhere to hide.

Some foxes will be "helper foxes" My male fox  (Daryl Dee) is a "helper fox"
If you don't know what a helper fox is, it is a fox that will care for a baby fox, bring it food and toys.  It is important to let the older fox see the baby fox, but don't let them loose together until you are positive the older fox won't hurt the younger one.  I started mine a little at a time. I put them both in a room where I can supervise, but, I didn't do this, until the baby was a little older. The adult fox or dog should be familiar with the kit before letting them in a room together.  Letting the baby fox in a large cage while the dog and/or older fox can see the younger fox would be a good start.  Dogs, foxes and other animals will want to smell the new kit, being  close to the cage would be enough for the older fox or dog. but, do not let them have any contact at first. 

However, it is best to let the new kit adjust to it's new environment first. Depending on the age of the kit, some might take longer than others. Usually a day or so would be fine.  If a fox is purchased that is older than about 6 weeks.  It will take longer for the kit to adjust to it's new environment.  some people make the mistake of not giving their kit ample time to adjust to it's new environment, therefore, a kit will be much harder to work with and could be discouraging for the new owner.
The other reason to stay with your kit as much as possible, this will create a better bond.
For a better bond, it is best to wait for quite awhile before you let your youngest fox with adult fox.
You want your new fox to bond with you not the older fox.

There are some breeders that pull the kits early and will give the kit a lot of human contact.  This would be easier for the new owners.  On another note, the kit will still need some adjustment time in it's new home.

HARNESSES/WALKS
I do recommend putting a harness on a fox. If you do, start them at a young age.
Some fox owners will take their fox for a walk with their harness. But, the problem with
walking your fox in public, is "the public".  There are many people out there that don't agree on keeping a fox as a pet, or any exotic animal for that matter. These type of people will not hesitate to report you.  Depending on your state and local area,  most states have been becoming very strict with their regulations. It is not only the state, your township/city/county has precedence over the state.

My honest opinion is to NOT take your fox for walks where there is a lot of people.
If you want to take your fox for a walk, do it on your property.
By taking your fox for walks, you take the chance of losing your fox, due to people complaining.
I have heard this happen. So, better to be safe than sorry.

BONDING
Some foxes will bark and sound like more like a dog.  Some outgrow this, some don't.  To help even further with bonding, make the same noise to your fox, as close as you can. You don't have to do this all the time. but, once in a while. This way, the fox will think you are his family and could help the bond process that much more.  Remember to also talk to your fox.
 

You do not need a lot of litter in the pan as you would use for a cat. Foxes don't bury their poop.  A very thin layer of litter is fine, this way, it lessens the chance of the fox digging and burying food or toys in it.

When the fox gets a little older, they seem to prefer larger litter boxes.  Most cat boxes are too small.  I have found that a small or even large cement mixing pan seems to work good. It is not real big, but, not too small either. They are a lot  cheaper than most kitty litter pans.  I recommend putting at least two litter boxes for your fox. However, I do have 2 very large litter pans and four large ones.

The picture to the right is about how much
litter to use. It is in a cement mixing pan.

Some foxes will take longer than others to litter train. but, don't get discouraged, keep trying. they should eventually get the idea.  If they dirty on the floor, clean that up as soon as possible with a good cleaner. You can also put their stools that you find out of the litter box, in the litter box..
It could take from a few days to a month or so for them to get the idea. Be consistent.

If you keep your fox in a room, then obviously, you want to put a litter box  or two in that room. If the fox don't use the litter box at first and seems to dirty more in a specific part of the room, then move the litter box where the fox is doing his/her business.

I try to make sure I keep the litter boxes clean. I change the litter  every  day or every other day. (depends on how messy it is).  If the foxes litter box is not kept clean, they will be more apt to go outside the box.   If the litter box is not real messy, you can scoop the feces for your daily cleaning.

I get those 4x3 cardboard sheets that come on pallets. (most stores will give them to you)
these can be placed under the litter box. (they sweep very easy) when cardboard sheet gets too dirty, then replace it.

Spaying/neutering and age seems to help lessen their marking and the odor. But don't except miracles.