PLEASE NOTE: I AM NOT
A BREEDER AND DO NOT SELL FOXES.
The information provided here is only based on my experience and
Are you Ready for a fox?
Ask yourself these questions if you are considering a fox.
Are foxes legal in your state? if so, what are your states
2. Have you done extensive research?
3. Have you talked with fox owners?
Do you have the proper set up for a fox?
Do You have experience with other animals?
Do you know that foxes will mark?
Do you know their urine smells like skunk?
If you keep a fox in your house, do you realize your house could smell,
unless cleaned frequently?
If you do keep your fox in your house, do you also have an outdoor
pen for him/her?
10.Do you have the time to dedicate to a fox?
11.Is there a vet nearby that will treat a fox?
12.Do you know you CANNOT leave a fox run loose?
13.Are you willing to give up your vacations?
14.Can you provide the proper care for the next 12-15 years?
15.Do you know foxes are NOT like dogs and do not like to cuddle or
petted like a dog?
16.Do you know foxes can be destructive?
factor in buying a fox is to make sure you buy one from a
reputable dealer. Some dealers are in it for the money and don't
really care about the babies. Other fox breeders care about the fox
kits and re-homing them. Watch out for the breeders that will
tell you what you want to hear, only to make a sale.
The good breeders will tell you the truth about their foxes, and
what a fox's disposition is.
The good fox breeders may offer you a care sheet, and support for
DO NOT, buy from an unknown breeder online. Keep in mind there
are many scams online, claiming they have this fox for sale, and
require payment in full or deposit. (which the good breeders might require a
deposit, but generally
only to hold the fox kit for the buyer) If you find someone selling
a fox, or claim to be a breeder. Do research before giving them
There is a lot of good information on my message board, feel free to
ask there about a breeder in question.
The breeder I bought
all my foxes from, are very good breeders. I bought them in Mt Hope
Swap Meet in Ohio.
There is a exotic swap meet there every May. usually the second
or third week
in May. There were many red foxes, gray and others there.
Check their web site for current dates:
However, since the Zanesville Ohio incident, Mt Hope Auction
or swap meet don't have as many foxes and other exotics as they use
I do not recommend shipping an older fox or any animals for that
matter. This is way too stressful for them and to easy to pick up
disease. However, many have received fox kits and
certain type of other exotic animals through shipping, with
no problem. One of the members on Sybil's Message board will ship
When buying a fox, I don't recommend buying a fox kit older than 5-6 weeks of age.
The exception to this, is if the breeder has given the fox kit the
proper bonding required with people.
Find out if this fox has been bottle fed. This can help bonding
with humans easier. However, this is not crucial, as long as the
kits are pulled from the mother, then sold. Good breeders will
generally pull the cubs several weeks or more prior to selling them.
Most foxes are weaned at 4-5 weeks of
age. I personally do not recommend getting a very young fox that
requires a bottle. Bottle feeding a fox kit can be tricky, and
more difficult than feeding a cat or most other animals. If
you are inexperienced with bottle feeding, the outcome could possibility can be a bad.
Please keep in mind, foxes are not like dogs
or cats. Foxes should NOT be raised like a you would a dog.
Foxes do not understand correction the way a dog or cat would.
Foxes should NEVER be left on an outdoor chain. Foxes should NEVER
be left to run loose. Chances are good, your fox will run away.
I have seen and heard it happen.
FOXES IN YOUR HOUSE
Most foxes DO NOT do well, being in your house 24/7. Foxes
love the outdoors, but also love being with their owners.
I highly recommend
an outside pen for him/her. of course you can still keep him/her in
your house, but, they also like the outside. When your fox is in
your house, plan on the fox marking your carpet, furniture,
blankets, cloths. If this urine is left un-cleaned, your house
will eventually smell like skunk. I personally removed all my carpets. I find
it easier to clean tile floor.
I keep blankets on my furniture. My foxes are not in my house
24/7. They are in the house with me 4-8 hours a day. But, even
though they have access in my house, they still like being in their
pen, so they don't always come in the house when their door is open.
My foxes have their own room with a doggie door that goes into their
pen. This set up is very convenient, especially when I am not
Foxes like straw and dirt and a place
to hide. You can put straw or wood chips. (I like the wood chips
better) but, you can use both. Foxes do like to play or bury
their cache in straw/hay.
When building your pen, if possible, dig a few feet, put cement or
chain link fence or some type of fence that won't wear or rot away.
However, if you do dig a few feet, make sure you bring the bottom
fence up to meet the exterior fence. once this is done, then
fill in the dirt. Then begin your exterior fence. It is not
crucial that you dig a few feet, you can always just throw dirt over
the bottom fence.
I recommend chain link fence or some type of fence that is durable.
However, keep in mind, that
putting a young fox kit in it's pen unsupervised, is not a good
idea. They can get their head stuck through the fence. However, once
the fox is full grown, that should no longer be a threat.
If you have loose chickens, or kittens or anything that can get
through a chain link fence,
then put a layer of chicken fence over the chain link fence. This
should close up the holes, so no small animals can get in, or a
chicken sticking it's head through the chain link. (This actually
happened to me, prior to putting the chicken fence over the chain
As for a roof (a must), you can put fence on the roof, or corrugated
panels, or any type of slant roof.
Keep in mind, you still want to keep litter pans in their pen, so
they continue to understand that is where they do their business at.
If you have an open pen with no solid roof or partial roof, the
litter will get wet when it rains or snows. This will only shy
the fox away from using their litter pan.
If you don't add any type of protective roof on the pen, the fox
should then have some type of places to go for shade.
as for a litter box, you can put the litter pan in some type of
large wooden box.
I don't recommend keeping an adult fox in a small cage. That is just
asking for problems. The fox will get bored, destructive and
The more you handle your fox, the more he/she will be
friendly, this also applies for others to handle your fox if
possible. Foxes are generally born in April. I
would highly recommend getting a very young fox, this will
give your fox a better chance to bond with you.
When raising a kit (young fox) The first 6 months are the most
crucial time to bond.
There are several different options to try.
I raised 4 foxes and have learned different approaches.
You can start them out in a large cage.
but, make it large enough that you can put a small litter box in it.
If you have an extra room, that would be better after you have the
fox for a week or so. The hard part is, trying to keep them
friendly with you, but at the same time, litter train them and to let
them release some of their energy.
When I raised my first fox, she was not litter trained. she was
(Sadly, I no longer have her, she slipped out of the house, and one
of the neighbors shot her,where she is now sitting in some jerks trophy room)
My second fox (Daryl), is 100% liter trained (except for periodically
He was not friendly the first 2 years. After trying a different
approach with him, he now is very friendly. (not like a dog)
My third fox (Darla) is about 95% liter trained. she will sometimes go by
the door or beside the litter box. She is semi-friendly, on her
terms. She seems to be getting better with age. One thing I
did notice, if the first fox is litter trained, and if you get a
second fox a year or so later, and have a hard time litter training
her/him. sometimes, the second fox will pick up on the litter
habits of the first fox.
Now on my fourth fox (Donnie), I took a little different approach
than I did with the first three.
When I first brought Donnie home, I kept him in a room with my older cat. If
you have a calm or older cat, this is fine to keep them together
while the fox is still small. It
is also good, so that the fox can get use to a cat being around.
However, once the fox grows up, I doubt they will be buddies. I
don't recommend keeping a full grown fox with a cat in a room
together unsupervised. NEVER PUT A KITTEN WITH A FULL GROWN FOX.
Donnie no longer stays in the room with the cat. He runs with the
other two foxes.
When Donnie was smaller, I tried to take him with me to whatever
room I was going to be in.
I let him play
while I am doing what I needed to do. I held him as much as I could. It is
good to at least pick the fox kit up once in awhile, even if it is for a few minutes,
then put him down. but keep doing this as often as you can, so the
fox gets use to being picked up.
I think the key here is to let them release some of their energy,
then hold them, pet them.
but, play with the fox as much as possible. The idea of
letting them release some of their energy is so you can hold and pet
your fox for longer periods of time and gain more of the attention. Otherwise, the fox will
squirm and want down and/or ignore you. I also held him sometimes while he is
sleeping. As he grew a little older, he didn't seem to want to
be held when he sleeps. As they grow, they sometimes are too big to
hold while they are sleeping and become more independent. Donnie
use to sleep on the bed with me most nights, he would snuggle up next to me, (which is unusual for a fox).
Unfortunately , Donnie shied away from me. I made the mistake of
letting him with the other foxes too soon and too often. Then,
I hurt my leg and had a hard time getting around for a few months,
so that sure didn't help in the training. Donnie is now very shy, but,
he is coming around a little at a time.
AGGRESSIVE FOX KITS:
If you get a fox kit that is older than 4-5 weeks old and find
he/she is aggressive. Most likely this could be due to a new
environment and new people. It is a MUST to let the fox kit
settle in and adjust to its new environment.
A scared and stressed fox will be aggressive and will bite.
The older the fox, the longer it will take for the fox to adjust to
its new environment and people.
If you have this problem with your fox kit, try the following steps:
1. Leave the fox in a large cage, don't try picking him/her up.
(especially the first day)
2. Don't let a lot of different people around your fox kit.
3. Don't attempt any type of training.
4. Don't pick the fox kit up.
It could take a day to a few weeks or more for the fox kit to
adjust. But, even if the fox is left in the cage,
you still need to be near the fox as much as possible, talk to the
fox in a low tone. when you are not home, leave a TV on low.
A good cage to use is one of those large dog cage. put a box
or whatever you can find so the fox has somewhere to hide.
keep that in the corner of the crate, then put a sheet or light
blanket to cover about 1/4 of the cage. This will help the fox feel
secure. If possible, set the cage on a table or something that is
about the same height as a table. This way, the fox won't feel
as threatened as it would on the floor. The fox would almost be at
the same level as its owner and not feel as threatened as it would
be on the floor.
Put a litter pan near the cage door for cleaning. However, it
is doubtful the fox kit will use it, but, it might.
I understand the cage will need cleaned. so, try and limited that as
much as possible the first couple days.
once a day might be ok. The litter box can be
small, you can even use a small cardboard box in lieu of a cat
litter box. (saves room in the cage)
You can also try putting the food and water dishes as close to the
door as you can.
Once the fox kit looks like it is not so stressed and a little more
comfortable, you could try hand feeding it a treat. If he/she is
still aggressive, don't give him the treat.
Once the kit looks more relaxed and adjusted to its new environment.
you could leave the cage door open in one room and see if he comes
out. Again, this is assuming he/she trusts you a little.
The key here is, the fox kit will at least feel safe in his cage, so
if he gets scared, he might run back in his cage.
Once the kit comes out and is not as aggressive, you can then SLOWLY
work with him.
Keep in mind, a scared fox kit is not always the case. Usually
depends on how the breeder handled the kit.
Either way, it might take a little time of adjustment. some do and
To continue: see the following:
Training an Older or
Full Grown Fox
As the fox gets older, most likely, he
will want to do what he wants to do. But, still try to keep him with
you and play with him/her as much as possible. Talk to your fox, no
matter what the conversation might be. Keep in mind, foxes do
not like to be hugged, petted all the time, and picked up. Don't force
him/her, this will only confuse or upset the fox. I am mostly
referring to adult foxes.
There may be times, when your fox will come to you to be petted, or
scratched. but, they do have their time limits.
Darla likes to groom the other foxes, even the dogs. I found it very
interesting to watch her do this. She takes her teeth, and starts at the skin, and gently pulls up on
the fur in a zig-zag way.
I tried this on Daryl, and he will sit still much longer when I do
this. Another petting method that Daryl loves, is when I gently
scratch the inside of his ear. (not deep in his ear, just at the
top) Daryl also likes the outside of his ear gently scratched, he even likes
when I rub his shoulders.
Foxes like toys. They will play with toys on their own and you can
also a small dog tug-a-war rope, cat balls, squeaky toys or something similar.
If your fox attempts to bite you, tell him/her NO, and a light tap
on the nose. The key here, as it is with any correction for any
animal, is "precise timing" The fox needs to understand the
If he/she is viciously biting, then there is a problem somewhere.
None of my foxes have bit me out of aggression.
As they get older and their teeth are more developed, you can grab
one of the canines and gently tug and tell the fox "NO" but
you need to be quick about it. If the fox is being aggressive, then don't do this. something
is wrong, maybe the fox don't trust you.
Foxes with other species or second Fox Kit
if you have other animals. Most foxes like
dogs. But, it depends on how your dogs are. Are your dogs pretty calm,
easy going or well behaved? Can you trust them with a fox this size? All my dogs are
use to smaller animals, so I don't have any trust problems with any
Cats and foxes don't mix well, especially kittens. NEVER put a
kitten with an adult fox. They MUST be kept separate. I had an
older cat when I got Daryl. Daryl, never bothered the cat, just
ignored her, even through adult. Then about 5 years of age, Daryl
tried to killed the older cat. I believe it was due to
jealousy. but, I am not sure. He did this twice.
Thereafter, I kept the cat separated.
NEVER leave a cat and fox unsupervised. Better to be safe than
If you already have a fox and adding a second
third, I don't recommend putting any kits with the full grown ones
until the older ones get use to the new fox. It is important to introduce them first. It will take a while.
Let the adult foxes or dogs see the kit, but keep control of the kit
at the same time. When I do introductory with very young and
small animals, I kept the young one in a large 3x4 cage, so the
other animals could see it, sniff it. but, keep a blanket on
the a part of the cage, in case the young fox gets scared, and has
somewhere to hide.
Some foxes will be "helper foxes" My male fox (Daryl
Dee) is a "helper fox"
If you don't know what a helper fox is, it is a fox that will care
for a baby fox, bring it food and toys. It is important to let
the older fox see the baby fox, but don't let them loose
together until you are positive the older fox won't hurt the younger
one. I started mine a little at a time. I put them both in a room
where I can supervise, but, I didn't do this, until the baby was a
little older. The adult fox or dog should be familiar with the kit
before letting them in a room together.
Letting the baby fox in a large cage while the dog and/or older fox
can see the younger fox would be a good start. Dogs, foxes and
other animals will want to smell the new kit, being close to
the cage would be enough for the older fox or dog. but, do not let
them have any contact at first.
However, it is best
to let the new kit adjust to it's new environment first. Depending
on the age of the kit, some might take longer than others.
Usually a day or so would be fine. If a fox is purchased that
is older than about 6 weeks. It will take longer for the kit
to adjust to it's new environment. some people make the
mistake of not giving their kit ample time to adjust to it's new
environment, therefore, a kit will be much harder to work with and
could be discouraging for the new owner.
There are some breeders that pull the kits early and will give the
kit a lot of human contact. This would be easier for the new
On another note, the kit will still need some adjustment time in
it's new home.
I do recommend putting a harness on a fox. If you do, start them at
a young age.
Some fox owners will take their fox for a walk with their harness.
But, the problem with
walking your fox in public, is "the public". There are many
people out there that don't agree on keeping a fox as a pet, or any
exotic animal for that matter. These type of people will not
hesitate to report you.
(depending on your state) Anymore, most states have been becoming
very strict with their regulations.
My honest opinion is to NOT take your fox for walks where there is a
lot of people.
If you want to take your fox for a walk, do it on your property.
By taking your fox for walks, you take the chance of losing your
fox, due to people complaining.
I have heard this happen. So, better to be safe than sorry.
Some foxes will bark and sound like more like a dog. Some
outgrow this. To help even further with bonding, make the same
noise to your fox, as close as you can. You don't have to do this
all the time. but, once in a while. This way, the fox will think you
are his family and could help bond that much more. Remember to also talk to your fox.
Litter Training a Fox
The urine of a fox is not very pleasant. it is almost like a skunk
The males seem to smell less than the female (in my
experience). I had
a difficult time with my first female using the liter box.
The male seemed easier
easy to litter train.
When I first brought my male fox home, I made
sure I had plenty of litter boxes for him. I would keep my fox
kit in a 4ft
cage at night only, in that cage was a liter box and a small food
dish and water dish. when he would poop out of the litter box, I put the poop in
the litter box, with hope, he would understand that is where he is suppose to
go. It didn't take long for him to figure that out.
Line the litter box with newspaper for easier cleaning. Daryl (my male
fox) is 99% litter trained now. When the foxes are young,
some might dig in
the liter box and throw the litter out or bury their food in the
litter. As a fox matures, they seem to
quit doing this. However, over filling a litter box will only
encourage your fox to use this to bury their food or toys.
You do not need a lot of litter in the pan as you
would use for a cat. Foxes don't bury their poop. A thin layer is
fine, this way, it lessens the chance of the fox digging and burying
food or toys in it.
When the fox
gets a little older, they seem to prefer larger litter boxes. Most cat
boxes are too small. I have found that a small cement mixing pan
seems to work good. It is not real big, but, not too small either.
They are a lot cheaper than most kitty litter pans. I
recommend putting at least two litter boxes for your fox.
Some foxes will take longer than others to litter train. but, don't
get discouraged, keep trying. they should eventually get the idea.
If they dirty on the floor, clean that up as soon as possible with a
good cleaner. It could take from a few days to a month or so
for them to get the idea.
If you keep your fox in a room, then obviously,
you want to put a litter box or two in that room. If the fox
don't use the litter box at first and seems to dirty more in a specific part of
the room, then move the litter box where the fox is doing his/her
I have about 4
litter boxes though out the house for my foxes and three in their
pen. However, I
have 2 raccoons that also share the litter boxes. I make sure I
keep the litter boxes clean. I change the litter every day
or every other day. (depends on how messy it is). If the foxes
litter box is not kept clean, they will be more apt to go outside
the box. If the litter box is not real messy, you can
scoop the feces for your daily cleaning.
I get those 4x3 cardboard sheets that come on pallets. (most stores
will give them to you)
these can be placed under the litter box. (they sweep very easy)
when cardboard sheet gets too dirty, then
Spaying/neutering and age seems to help lessen their marking and the odor.
But don't except miracles.
If don't plan on
breeding your fox, I highly recommend spaying the female and
neutering the male. This should be done by 6 months of age, or
before they reach maturity at one year.
I feel this makes a big difference in their personality. It never
changes, even at breeding season.
spaying and neutering will also help diminish some of the odor and
However, don't expect this to be a 100% cure for marking and odor,
because it is not.
A fox will always mark and always have an odor, but, it don't seem
as bad as when the fox spayed or neutered.
It is important to make sure you find a vet that is familiar with
foxes, or at least willing to research prior to these procedures.
Foxes Scent Gland and
Foxes have scent glands
that can throw off a skunk-like odor. but, when this happens, it is
because they are scared. however, by removing this gland, it
not help the urine odor. Generally, once they get use to you and
their environment, they generally don't get scared.
Foxes have many different glands, the one that relates to the urine
odor, is not the same one that throws an odor of a scared fox.
I DO NOT
recommend removing this gland. This procedure is more complex than
skunk glands. It can be unsafe for a fox and possibly deadly.
This procedure WILL NOT affect the urine smell. This procedure will only put your fox in danger, with no results.
NEVER even consider having the their canine teeth removed.
This will not help any type of tameness.
also, you stand the chance of breaking the foxes jaw. It is
CRUEL to even consider it.
If a person is even considering it, then it most likely is a problem
with the owners inability for caring for their fox.
Toys is highly recommended. They
love squeaky toys. The more toys and things for him/her to do, the
better. Foxes are thieves, they will steal items and hide them.
You should fox proof your house, or rooms the fox will be in.
The more they have to do, the less trouble they will get into.
My foxes have each other, dogs and raccoons to play with,
which also helps.
Also, re-arrange their pen once in awhile. They seem to
Sometimes, I hear fox owners complain about how destructive their
fox is, chances are, the fox is bored, and don't have enough
activity, playmates or pen with lots of hiding places and activities
in their pen.
If a fox is cooped up in a small cage or pen for many hours, the fox
will be full of energy and be more apt to be destructive.
A bored or unhappy fox will put holes in the walls, rip up your
furniture, chew up everything it can find.
This is another reason, a fox should have a nice size pen with a lot
of activities and where they can feel comfortable and safe.
Feeding a fox
Feeding foxes can be
I feed mine, a little bit of dry dog food, a little of dry and
canned cat food.
I also feed them cooked chicken, turkey, beef very sparingly. My
foxes love deer meat. They also get chicken giblets (which they
Unfortunately, it is not always
easy to obtain. At times, I will give my foxes raw meat, but,
that is not their steady diet.
My foxes seem to do quite well on this
diet. You can offer a plate of a few different foods, fruits and
see what the fox prefers.
I do not feed my foxes live food. Some
fox owners do. But, the way I think of it, the foxes will think that
any small animal
that moves, is "fair game" Of course, I can't say for sure
this true, but, this is only my observation of it.
unfortunately, foxes generally will kill chickens, kittens,
rats, mice. (the rat and mice is OK with me, because they are wild
Eggs are their favorite. I give my foxes a whole egg as
a treat (shell and all). Fruits is another type of food. Some foxes seem to have
different tastes than others. It is best to offer different types and
see what they will like. Marshmallows are also generally a
treat for most foxes. My foxes don't prefer fruit or veggies.
but, I sometimes I will grind up carrots or greens and mix with
There are some fox owners that feed their foxes raw food or/or live
food as a steady diet. I personally don't find it necessary. I just want to keep their food as safe as
possible. Feeding raw food could require frequent worming. some
people swear by raw diet. I honestly don't really know for
sure, so I cannot say if the raw is any better than cooked.
I sometimes hear fox owners, or any animal for the matter,
swear by raw diet, they said it makes their fur softer and seem
healthier. I certainly am not going say it is not true.
but, on another note, what type of food was the animal eating prior
to the raw diet? if is was junk kibbles, then any change,weather
it would be cooked or raw would be an improvement. my dogs,
foxes and raccoons get home cooked food, along with grain-free dog
or cat food. I honestly have noticed the difference from the
dogs I had before. seems I was always taking my dogs to the
vet, they had lumps,
most of them died from cancer.
Foxes will mark in their
food dish or any empty dish, even their dishes.
To resolve this, put their food and water dish in some type of
enclosure, so the fox can only reach his/her head in the enclosure.
I have a couple
feeding stations for my foxes and raccoons. Some are inside and
some in their pen. I keep their food dishes inside cat condo. Their
outside pen has a tower, with shelves. I put another
food dish and water on the shelve. it is low enough that makes
it difficult for them to mark in their dishes. I also
have a stainless steel water bucket for their water dishes.
it is high enough that they can't mark in it, but, low enough they can
Foxes like fresh water, there water should be changed daily.
If you have dogs or cats where your fox can access their food dish,
you might want to take those dishes off the floor. But, the easiest
thing to do is, don't let the foxes in your kitchen or where ever
you might have other animal food dishes.
If you allow your fox
access to your kitchen, then keep
your counter and table cleaned off, especially plastic bags. For
some reason, they seem to like to mark on plastic bags. I keep my
kitchen door closed so the foxes don't have access in their.
Leather is also appealing to foxes. When your fox is in your
house, remove anything that is leather, including shoes (unless you
are wearing them).
Foxes Life Span
I believe a captive-born fox life span is about 10-15 years old..
I have talked to a few people that had a fox that lived to 15 years
Training an Older or
Full Grown Fox
Usually young foxes under
six months of age are fearless. This is one reason why it
is very important that you spend as much time everyday with your fox
to help with the bonding process.
If your fox should begin to shy away from you or if you already have
a fox older than six months and want to get him/her more friendly.
Then here are a few ideas to try.
Sit her lay on the floor where or near your fox is.
Softly talk to your fox. (they
will hear you)
Have a treat in your hand that
he/she really likes.
(mine loves whole eggs, shell and all)
Hold the treat with your
arm extended out. Most likely, your fox won't take it
from your hand the first time, or even second, third
try or even day.
When your fox see's the treat,
he/she will want it, but will be afraid.
Do NOT give the fox the treat unless he/she takes it from
Try to do this everyday and as many times as you can.
Most likely, your fox will be scared the first time you are down on
the floor if you have never done this before.
Keep in mind, many foxes are intimated by a person because we are
not at their level/size.
When your fox finally takes a
treat from your hand, remain on the floor at his/her
level. However, the fox will most likely take the treat and run.. but, he/she
will be back for another.
Once your fox gets use to the idea
of taking a treat from your hand, next hold the treat
and extend one finger out to pet his nose. If your might
get scared and run, but should return. If your fox
is still scared that you extended your finger, wait a
couple more times to try that.. Eventually, your fox
will let you touch or pet his nose. Actually, my Daryl
Dee (my male) is to the point where he thinks this is
part of the treat. He won't take the egg or treat unless
I touch his snout. I
If you do this everyday and as often as you can, your fox should
become more friendly.
It will take a while, but, it should happen. My foxes
love to have the inside of their ears scratched. (do it gently when
they are ready for this point)
Daryl Dee made a very big change since I started doing this.
He now comes to me when I call him. He comes and nudges me to be
petted. He lets me pet him anywhere, his back, rear, head.
When I am laying in bed, both foxes will come to me to be petted.
Sometimes they will sleep on the bed with me at night. Daryl
Dee will jump up at me for treats and follows me around once in
With Daryl Dee, I made the mistake of not spending as much time with
him when he was younger. I didn't hold him. pick him up as I should
With Darla Jean, I started out ok. but, then did not pursue the
contact she needed.
She is friendly, but, not as friendly as Daryl is now. She is
getting "better with age"
Fox odor is very difficult to remove. But,
I have found that Nil-odor products or Zep products work. If you
really want to cover up fox odor, try Creylon. This is sometimes
sold at farm/feed stores.
I use "odor-ban" and zep cleaner and sometimes creylen mixed
when cleaning a fox pen or wherever the fox stays most of the time,
a more safer cleaner would be "simple green", and/or "vinegar,
water and a little dish soap" (this also helps deter flies)
For the rug, you can sprinkle a
little moth crystals and rug deodorizer before vacuuming.
Prior to this, it is best to try and clean up the spot where the fox
THERE ARE MANY ADS CLAIMING THEY HAVE DOMESTIC FOXES OR MAKING IT
SOUND IF THEY ARE COMING FROM RUSSIA.
SOME ADS CLAIM THEY HAVE RUSSIAN FOXES FOR SALE AT $1200.00.
THIS IS NOT TRUE. A RUSSIAN FOX
COST $8000.00 and
they are not easy to obtain. There is only one breeder that
sells Russian foxes, and he is from Florida.
AT this time, there is only one person in the United States that
owns a Russian fox as a pet. She is a member on my message
There is a place in Quebec Canada (Tame the Wild) that claims to
have a many different foxes and try to claim they "domestic foxes".
The information and pictures she has on this site either stolen from
other sites. Most of her comments about raising foxes are
(However, how would she know, she has never owned a fox)
THEY ARE NOT LEGIT. FOXES ARE ILLEGAL IN MANY PROVIDENCES IN CANADA.
AGAIN, PLEASE DO NOT FALL PREY TO THESE SCAMMERS. IF IN DOUBT,
PLEASE ASK ON MY
MESSAGE BOARD, EVERYONE THERE IS
VERY HELPFUL AND HONEST.
Some people or breeders will refer to their foxes as "domestic fox".
Actually, the word "domestic" can be viewed in different ways.
Here is the true definition from dictionary.com
|1. to convert (animals, plants, etc.)
to domestic uses; tame.
2. to tame (an animal), especially by generations of
breeding, to live in close association with human beings as
a pet or work animal and usually creating a dependency so
that the animal loses its ability to live in the wild.
3. to adapt (a plant) so as to be cultivated by and
beneficial to human beings.
4. to accustom to household life or affairs.
5. to take (something foreign, unfamiliar, etc.) for one's
own use or purposes; adopt.
The way I see it, is yes, all captive born foxes, can be
classified as a domestic fox.
some people think, that foxes born in captivity are not domestic.
Now, this term could get confusing, because some people think only
Russian foxes are classified as Domestic.
RUSSIAN FOX VS OTHER FOXES:
I have seen articles online claiming the Russian fox is the only way
to have a "domestic fox" and
refer to captive born foxes as "wild" and hard to work with. This is
The Russian fox experiment was started over 50 years ago, but, their
goal was to achieve many different colors.
They try to breed the calmest foxes, which I am sure they did.
For some reason, many people seem to think that the Russian foxes
are completely different than than
the captive born foxes which is not true.. The Russian foxes
still mark, they still have the same glands and cannot be left
outside without a pen.
so, what is the difference? $7600.00 is the difference.
When buying a fox, it is important to understand them, spend a lot
of time with them. (This applies to any type of fox)
The way I see it, if someone wants a fox that don't behave like a
fox, then get a dog.
|This care sheet written by Pat (owner of
Sybils Den web site)
(I do NOT sell or raise fox kits or any other type of animal.)
The information provided is only based on my experience to help
If you are looking for a fox kit, please see my
and Message Board
Remember, please make sure you know the breeder. NEVER buy a
fox or any animal from online unless you know who they are.
If you see a fox for more than $500.00, you are being ripped off.