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Chicken help

Chickens, Ducks, Geese, Guineas,Turkeys. Pheasants etc

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Foxyloxy53
Posts: 15
Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2013 7:31 pm
Location: Canada

Chicken help

Postby Foxyloxy53 » Sun Nov 24, 2013 3:09 pm

I <3 CHICKENS SO MUCH but i need some help :happyfox: I am MIGHT order chicks from murray mcmurray but i really dont know alot i need HELP i need to know where to get chick feed and feeders and how hot the temp has to be and what beding to use icon-sad
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Ash
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Location: Utah

Re: Chicken help

Postby Ash » Sun Nov 24, 2013 9:47 pm

When my sister and I got our pet chickens we kept them in a cardboard box with paper towels and a heat lamp shining down on them. They're hardy animals, some differences in temperature isn't going to hurt them. Just make sure they stay warm, and you'll wind up with a healthy chicken. ;) Others may be able to give you better specifics.

Farm and Fleet is where we bought our chicken food if that helps.
3 red fox, 4 pectinata iguanas, nile monitor, BW tegu, sailfin dragon, leachie gecko, 6 snakes, salamander, 3 tarantulas
Trefoil
Posts: 1379
Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:58 am
Location: MI,USA

Re: Chicken help

Postby Trefoil » Thu Nov 28, 2013 3:12 am

Supplies you can get a Tractor Supply, farm and fleet, many pet stores, your local grain elevator, or usually a lot cheaper on line- just do a search for poultry supplies. For the first 6-8 weeks feed them medicated chick starter, after that usually grower. You don't have to give grit while they are only eating starter, but to give them anything else they will need access to grit. And water- don't give them cold water, it will give them poopy butt, always luke warm. Use a chick waterier so they don't drown themselves. If you start them with their brooder in the house you can use a regular light bulb in the brooder lamp, just keep checking the temperature under it until you figure out the wattage bulb you need to get the temperature, before you get the chicks, every week after the first their temperature needs go down 5º, so you just raise the lamp a little. If you brood outside you will need a heat lamp and a lot of care to make sure you don't start a fire. The first week chicks need to be able to get where its 95ºF. Not kept at, be able to get where. Don't use anything slippery for bedding- it will give them straddle leg. For the first week or so I use puppy pads and sawdust after that. I use the puppy pads at first cause they are easy and also because to teach them to eat I sprinkle the feed on the brooder floor in front of them. If you have chicks sent to you, dip their beaks in water as you take them out of the box they came in. It gives them a drink to start and shows them how to drink and where the water is. I put a teaspoon or so so of apple cider vinegar per quart in their water. If you want pets that lay eggs, cochins or silkies are usually very friendly. If your main reason is for the eggs, get rhode island reds, astralops, leghorns, or easter eggers- depending on what color eggs you want. There is a forum for chicken people that is loaded with information and well as available help for any questions you might have. Its backyard chickens (BYC)
http://www.backyardchickens.com/f/

Good luck and enjoy, hope I helped, if you have any more questions- just ask, a lot of people here have chickens.
Realtree1
Posts: 282
Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:27 pm

Re: Chicken help

Postby Realtree1 » Tue Dec 24, 2013 8:23 am

How many are you getting? 15 do wonderfully in a 56 gallon tote for a good while. At about 5 weeks they move to an exercise pen with 1/2 inch to an inch bar spacing. Let your chicks determine your temp after the initial 95, note, I'm not correcting trefoil i'm just adding on, everything already said is correct. Anyway, your chicks will let you know when to raise the lamp. If they all seem to want to get away from the hot spot its time to raise it. Also, the ACV is an awesome idea just dont put it in metal waterers. It can cause toxins to leach into the water. If you can find ACV with mother that is optimal. My current batch of chicks I've never medicated. This is because I'm tired of todays chickens being so fragile, and I plan on hatching my own chicks from these girls. If you want the same from your birds be prepared for some to die. Its just life and its natures way of only allowing the most rugged to survive. A couple personal preferances and tips. Be prepared to have the right size of feeders and waterers. When you have only 10-15 you can get by with using chick feeders and waters all the way up until they graduate up to big feeders/waters. If you have more chicks you'll need a smaller 7 pound feeder and a 1 gallon waterer for when you chicks are about 7 weeks old. I personally find that free ranging is the best way of keeping your birds. I have people who buy eggs from me who ask me any time I see them when they can get eggs again., my girls shut down a little for winter so I dont sell any, but they said they've bought store bought and even other "farm fresh eggs" and no one can stand up to my girls shell hardness, membrane toughness, or their flavor. I'm not taking the credit when I get told this, I simply owe it to my girls foraging ability and getting the proper nutrition. Also, probiotics and electrolytes are your friend. They can cure most any gut problem. I had an outbreak of coccidiosis that I put an end to with these two. Probiotics restore the good bacteria to the gut to overload the bad, and electrolytes rehydrate birds when stressed. Finally, try and get more than one color variety. Chickens separate into their own groups. Dark chickens prefer to be with dark chickens, and of you have 1 buff or white or whatever chickens, they will get picked on and beat up. I know this from experience. I had 1 buff orpington amongst 11 barred rocks and 2 light brown leghorns, and they have picked on her since a chicks. She still is on the lower end of the pecking order. The positive with this is she related people with an escape from being beat up. Shes the biggest sweet heart of the bunch.

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